Life on the Overlook, Wild and Otherwise

Of animal encounters on the way up and down

View from the Overlook in Dubois WY

My hiking buddy bailed, so I decided to do the go-to workout in the middle of town. I’ve often tramped that steep dirt road up the Overlook before, seen that red dirt and those rocks.

Just back from a hiking trip to the top of the Yorkshire Dales, I’ve been slow to regain my enthusiasm for hiking here. But at least it’s exercise, I told myself. And around here you never know what you may find.

It’s  a fairly steep climb up the dirt road to the plateau halfway up, with the chariot racetrack off to the east. From that point there’s a brief stroll across fairly level ground (the middle part of the picture above). Then you have the option of continuing along the road or taking a shorter but steeper trail to the top.

That last part of the hike up the trail, which you can see at the lower left in the picture, is usually slick with loose pebbles. Always risking “rock and roll,” you want to go slowly and step carefully.

I left the road. Just starting up that final climb, I heard someone yelling behind me – the kind of shout an angry parent uses for a disobedient child. But this wasn’t one shout; it was repeated and insistent. I turned to look.

Hike to the top of the Scenic Overlook in Dubois WY

A pickup was coming slowly up the road. An arm waved out the driver’s window. Two dogs – one brown, one white –  were trailing behind, detouring to sniff and explore. The yells went on, and the dogs followed in stops and spurts.

I went on uphill. A few feet up the pebbly trail, I heard barking close behind me. A handsome young white hound was trailing me, a few feet behind. Its gaze was interested, not hostile.

“Go back,” I said, waving toward the pickup that was headed along the road toward the top. “Go on!”

It barked again, then turned and ran toward the pickup. “Good dog!” I called after it.

The pickup was already parked when I emerged at the top of the trail, breathing hard. A woman and the two dogs were standing beside the driver’s door. Two others had stepped away to look at the badlands behind.

The driver caught my eye. “I can’t keep up with them, so I just let them run,” she said. “I bring them up here every day.”

Off-leash dogs are a hot-button issue here, a topic for debate in the local newspaper. Others let their dogs run loose on the Overlook. If there’s a rule about that, it is often honored in the breach.

Dog on the Scenic Overlook in Dubois WY

“Yeah, I used to let my dog run free up here too,” I replied. “I knew he would never hurt anyone.”

“Your dog up here?” she asked.

“No, he’s no longer with us,” I said. (That’s him on the Overlook. I hope he is having many wonderful hikes in his afterlife.)

I approached the white hound dog, my hand extended palm down, and it sniffed and wagged its tail. “You’re a good dog!” I said. “Good for you protecting your owner.”

Her two friends were taking pictures with their cameras. “I always think it’s unfair that the steepest part is at the top,” I said to them as I headed toward the road downhill, having caught my breath. “See you on the way down.”

And I did. Both dogs ran happily behind the pickup. Neither was interested in me now.

Reaching the flat stretch on the middle level, I saw five horses trotting in my direction, tightly reined by a pair of riders. I stepped off into the sagebrush to let them pass.

It’s the week before the Don Scheer Memorial Pack Horse Races, when people compete to be quickest to load the panniers and gear on their horses at the Town Park, race up to the Overlook and away somewhere else, unload and repack, and then return, unload, and pitch “camp”.

I’ve seen riders on horseback along the highway in recent days, training their horses not to be spooked by the traffic. The tourists must love the sight.

Contestant in Pack Horse Races, Dubois WY

“Good luck at the races!” I called out as the two men passed.

“We’ll need it!” said one of them.

“Doesn’t everybody?” I asked, thinking of the man last year whose load slipped off just as he was leaving the Park.

I continued along the double-track that runs toward the dirt road heading down toward the highway. Just as I reached the road, the pickup approached, followed by the brown dog. I couldn’t imagine why she would be coming up from behind, given that she had already passed me.

She stopped and rolled her window down. “Lose one?” I said.

“He got distracted by a coyote,” she replied. “Did you see the coyote?”

“Nope. I was too busy watching the horses.”

View east from Scenic Overlook in Dubois WY

“Yeah, I saw them too. But I never heard of a coyote on the Overlook. What was a coyote doing up here, I wonder?”

“My dog once found a dead porcupine up here,” I replied. “I wondered what on earth a porcupine was doing on the Overlook.”

“Yeah. No trees up here,” she said. “Musta been lost.” She waved and drove on.

Sure was a workout, I said to myself as I went on.  

It may not have the charm and novelty of the Yorkshire Dales. But still, it’s so much more interesting than Pandora on the headphones and the incline settings on the treadmill.

© Lois Wingerson, 2022

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Author: LivingDubois

I am a retired science journalist, devoted to enjoying and recording the many pleasures of life in the Wyoming's Upper Wind River Valley.

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