The lovely teenager at left began the evening helping with soft drinks, defiantly wearing her Bob Marley shirt. “I’m not wearing any of those stupid Western clothes!” she had told my friend, whom she’s visiting. And she refused to dance, saying she can’t. (Once mother of a teenage girl, I found this quite familiar.) One of our young people saw the stranger at the bar, came on over, and pulled her onto the floor. Friendly just isn’t something you can sell in a travel guide. You have to be here and witness it. Then you’re hooked.